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MR2 Turbo Aquamist Installation: The Water Line
The Aquamist instructions explain that the atomized water should be injected between the intercooler and the throttle body to give the mist sufficient time to mix well with the air mass entering the manifold. Since the pump is installed in the front of the car and the 1/8" tube will wind its way underneath the center console cover and exit out the side of the heat shield, it makes most sense to install the water injection nozzle on the forward side of the intercooler to throttle body pipe about halfway between the two. The Aquamist kit comes with several nozzles and I chose the one with the 0.5mm orifice. Take the pipe off the car and drill a 9/32" hole suitable for the M8x0.75 tap included in the kit. Screw in the nozzle and put the pipe back on the car. At this point, the 1/8" tube should be coming through the front bulkhead near the right headlight through a rubber grommet and mostly lying inside the front cargo space. Locate the wire bundle that passes through the front firewall just behind and above the positive terminal of the battery. Poke a small hole in the grommet and gently feed the 1/8" tube through it. You may wish to route the tube around the wiring for the power steering unit so that it follows the side of the compartment and stays behind the plastic cover once you put that back on. Take at least 12 feet of 16 gauge wire and feed it alongside the tube leaving enough wire in the front cargo compartment to reach the front fuse box. The tube and wire should now be mostly located in the passenger compartment. Do not put the plastic cover back on because you will need to wire the pump as described in the wiring section first. Inside the passenger compartment, unscrew the shift knob off the shifter and carefully pry the plastic shift boot holder away from the center console with a small flat-bladed screwdriver. Unscrew the two screws just forward of the shifter that hold the center console in place. Open the doors on the rear center console compartment and remove the four screws that attach it to the car. Pull it off and set it aside. Slide the seats forward and tilt them towards the dashboard so that you can access the four side screws that hold the center console in place. These screws have little plastic caps that you must pry off carefully with a small flat-bladed screwdriver. The center console should now lift right off. Set it aside. Take the tube and the wire and feed them through from underneath the dashboard behind the radio until they come out near the shifter. You may want to pull out the ashtray to make more room. There is also a small plastic trim piece in front of the emergency brake that you may need to pull off to do this, it just depends on how lucky you get and how patient you are. Pull the tube and wire through being careful not to crimp or damage the tube. You might want to use a plastic tie or two to fasten the tube and wire to keep them from sight and from harm. Follow the two shift cables to the point where they pass through the rear firewall. Unscrew the two nuts holding the metal cover over the plastic grommet that the shift cables pass through. The plastic grommet has a cut down the middle of it and you should be able to push the tube and wire though easily between the two cables. Push about a foot of tube and wire through and then pop open the engine lid and move to the back of the car. Using a small socket wrench and a 10mm deep socket, unscrew the six nuts that hold the two heat shields in place in the front of the engine compartment. You may need to loosen and take the air intake off the turbo to make it easier to get to all the nuts. You do not have to take the heat shield out completely, just enough to be able to reach the tube and wire that you pushed through the firewall and carefully pull them into the engine bay. Carefully ake all the slack out of the tube and wire. I used a section of -3AN steel braided hose to protect the 1/8" water line where it passes around the heat shield and over the turbo outlet pipe. The -3AN hose slips right over the 1/8" tube perfectly. If you do not wish to use steel braided hose, then find some other suitable insulating material to protect the fragile vinyl tube from melting where it may make contact with hot metal parts. If there is any excess tube, cut it to the proper length and push it carefully onto the nozzle of the water injector. It will be tight and you may want to use a little bit of machine oil or light lubricant to help you. Make sure that you have pulled enough wire to reach the rear firewall of the engine bay. Bolt the heat shields back in place. Put the metal cover back on the shifter cable grommet (it has an arrow showing which way is up) and bolt it back on. You may want to use another plastic tie or two to secure the tube and wire in place. Be sure that neither will get caught and damaged in the shifter mechanism. Put the center console, rear console compartment, shift boot and knob back on. |
