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Hydra Nemesis 2 Plug and Play Installation Instructions
| Nemesis Installation |
Troubleshooting Primer |
Nemesis Tuning Primer |
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| Wideband Installation |
Boost Control Installation |
Ignition Installation |
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Before starting the process of installing your Hydra Nemesis 2 plug and play system, you
should disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery and push it aside
so that it cannot snap back to make contact with the battery post during the
installation.
Open the trunk and using the tip of your key push in the middle buttons on
the four fasteners holding the top of the trunk liner against the firewall
separating the engine bay from the trunk. The fasteners should now easily pull
out. Peel back the trunk liner to expose the ECU on the left side of the car. Using a 10mm wrench, remove
the three bolts holding the ECU to the firewall. Screw these back in a couple of
turns when you remove the ECU because you will be using them later to bolt the
Nemesis system to the firewall. To the left of the location
where the ECU was bolted, there is a large hole covered by a grommet with a
wiring harness passing through it. Just below and a little to the left of this
large grommet is a smaller hole covered with a rubber cover just over 1/2"
in diameter. Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, gently pry off the cover and
replace it with the grommet provided with the Nemesis.

Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, carefully pull up the plastic step cover
running along the lower part of the door sill. You do not have to remove it
completely, just loosen it so that the trim panel it touches on the rear side of
the passenger cabin can be removed. Inside the passenger cabin, move the left
hand seat forward to permit you to access the rear carpet covering the firewall.
If you are storing your T-tops here, remove them from the passenger cabin.

Use a #2 Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw holding the
plastic trim behind the engine lid opening lever and carefully pull it out.

Pull the lid covering the step behind the seat up and pry the plastic
fasteners holding the lower side pillar cover to the lip of the step cavity.
Unscrew the lid hinge and put the lid aside.

Grab the edge of the lower side pillar cover and
carefully pull it away from the frame and set it aside.

Carefully pull the lower right corner of the carpet back enough to expose the
grommet covering the hole through which the main wiring harness passes to the
engine bay. Unplug the two ends of the serial cable from each at the audio-style
plugs found near one end of the serial cable. Put the very short end in the
trunk and bring the long end with you into the passenger cabin. Using a Phillips screwdriver, carefully poke a small hole in the
grommet and push the audio-style plug on the long end of the laptop cable through
the hole to the engine bay. From the engine bay, carefully pull the serial cable out and feed it
past the gas fuel filler pipe, under the air intake,
the charcoal canister and the fuse box through the new grommet and into the
trunk. If you find it hard to work your hand down to feed the cable into the
hole, use a coat hanger or a length of wire fed in from the trunk side and
electrical tape to secure the serial cable and carefully pull it through. Plug the short end of the
serial cable back on. Snap the lower side
pillar cover back in place arranging the laptop cable so that it easily reaches
to the passenger seat and is not pinched by the plastic trim pieces. Push the
fasteners back in place and screw the lid back on and snap it shut. Carefully
work the trim piece back behind the engine lid opening latch and screw it into
place.
If you are setting this up on a gen3 engine, you do not need to install the
MAT sensor and you should skip past the next series of steps that describe this
for the gen2 engine.

Loosen the hose clamps holding the intercooler to throttle inlet pipe and
work the pipe off. Using a 12mm socket, take off the throttle body inlet and the
two bolts holding the throttle body brace between the throttle body and the
valve cover. Take off the two bolts holding the accelerator cable bracket and
detach the cable from the throttle. Use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts
holding the valve cover side of the bracket and remove the bracket. Pull off one
side of the little hose running between the valve cover and the throttle body.

Using a 12mm socket, remove the four bolts holding the throttle body to the
intake manifold taking note of the fact that the two lower bolts are longer than
the upper ones. Unplug the connector going to the throttle position sensor (four
pins) and pull the throttle away from the intake manifold so that you can access
and pull off the connector to the idle speed valve (three pins) under the
throttle body. Do not detach the hoses connected to the idle speed control valve
but gently move the throttle body out of the way so that you can access the cold
start injector underneath the throttle body attachment point on the intake
manifold.

Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, pry the retaining clip off the
cold start injector connector. It is not easy to do, but there is a small notch
on the very top of the edge facing towards the front of the car that you can use
to pry the clip out. When the clip is out, the connector will slide out easily.
Use a little electrical tape to wrap the cold start connector so that it does
not make contact with anything and short the electrical system. Use a 10mm
closed-end wrench to pull off the two bolts holding the cold start injector to
the intake manifold. Pull off the cold start injector and remove and clean the
gasket behind it. If it is broken and not reusable, obtain a new gasket from
your Toyota dealer before proceeding to prevent boost leaks. Using a 10mm
wrench, unbolt the union bolt holding the cold start fuel line to the fuel rail.
Prepare a small container to catch the fuel that will run out of the cold start
injector fuel line when you pull it from the fuel rail. Save and clean off the
washer on the union bolt.

Use the washer and the 8x1mm bolt supplied with the Nemesis to plug up the fuel rail. Do not torque the plug over 10 ft/lbs. Locate the
manifold temperature sensor and the mounting plate provided with the Nemesis and
screw the sensor snuggly into the plate.

Using the bolts and the gasket
originally on the cold start injector, bolt the mounting plate onto the intake
manifold with the measuring tip of the sensor pointing up into the manifold. You
should see the tip poking out of the hole in the bottom of the manifold when the
plate is firmly reattached. Do not torque the bolts over 10 ft/lbs. Locate the
temperature sensor cable provided with the Nemesis, snap the connector on the
cable onto the manifold temperature sensor and snake it under the fuse box and
through the new grommet into the trunk. Wrap electrical tape over the cold start
injector connector to prevent it from shorting against the throttle body or
valve cover and potentially blowing a fuse.

Line up the throttle body back onto the
intake manifold first reconnecting the idle speed valve connector (three pins)
and the throttle speed sensor connector (four pins) and placing the gasket that
goes between the throttle body and the intake manifold back in place. Put the
four bolts that hold the throttle body back in place (the longer ones go an the
bottom) and torque them to 13 ft/lbs. Push the little hose that goes between the
throttle body and the valve cover back into place. Put the bracket that secures
the throttle body against the top of the valve cover back on and torque the 12mm
bolts to 13 ft/lbs. and the 10mm bolts to 8 ft/lbs. Put the throttle body inlet
back on remembering the gasket between the throttle body and the inlet and
torque the four bolts to 13 ft/lbs. Reattach the throttle cable and bolt the
throttle cable bracket onto the throttle body. Torque the two bolts holding the
throttle cable bracket to 13 ft/lbs. Work the intercooler to throttle body inlet
pipe back in place and tighten the clamps properly so that they do not pop off
the next time you boost.

The plug and play box comes programmed for the type of engine that you
indicated you had when you ordered the unit. If you suspect that the box is not
properly configured, open the box by unscrewing the four larger screws on the
base of the board.

Carefully pull the top of the plug and play box forwards to clear the main
connector and then upwards to pull it away from the base. Grab the wire bundle
coming out of the hole on the side of the plug and play box and gently push
inward to give the wires extra slack to allow the top to be moved upward enough
to expose the entire circuit board inside. The configuration jumpers are now
exposed and can be easily set by pulling each jumper off and reinserting it in
the position shown here.
Inside the engine bay, locate a small black box attached to the same bracket
holding the connector labeled "Diagnosis." There is a
short 4mm inner diameter hose connecting this small box to a vacuum port on the
intake manifold. On the 91 and 92 MR2s, cut this hose and reconnect it together using using the 4mm tee
provided with the Nemesis. Attach one end of the 4' long 4mm hose provided with
the Nemesis to the third end of the tee. On the 93-95 MR2s, pull off the short
4mm hose that goes from a 4mm tee to the small vacuum actuator on the throttle
cable linkage and attach the 4' long 4mm hose provided with the Nemesis to the
4mm tee. Feed the hose
around the back of the intake manifold and under the fuse box and feed it
through the new grommet into the trunk. You may need to temporarily slide the
1/2" grommet off the sheet metal to give the hole a little more room to squeeze
the hose through with the serial cable and MAT cable already there.
Insure that the three connectors on the plug and
play box are securely connected to the corresponding connectors on the Nemesis. Note that the two
smaller connectors are identical except for their color and that they must be
plugged into the matching color connector on the Nemesis unit. Lay the Nemesis
face down on the bottom of the trunk and connect the three stock connectors that
used to plug into the stock ECU into the main connector on the end of the plug
and play box. Partly screw in
the two bolts on the left side of the firewall that originally held the stock
ECU and slide the two tabs of the bracket underneath the heads and washers of these bolts.
Insert the last bolt that held the stock ECU into the remaining bolt hole and
tighten all three bolts with an open-end 10mm wrench. Push the 4mm hose from the intake
manifold into the vacuum port on the Nemesis. You can carefully trim off any
excess length from this hose before doing so to keep it from kinking or
tangling. Connect the manifold temperature sensor
cable to the connector labeled 'MAT' on the plug and play board. Connect the
serial cable to the Nemesis. Position the
switch on the left side of the plug and play box with the labels 'Test' and 'Race' to its center position.
On newer plug and play boxes there is no 'Test' label because this function is selected by
putting a jumper across T and E1 in the diagnosis connector just as you would if
you had a stock ECU. In this case, the switch just has two positions and you
should set it to the one pointing away from the 'Race' label.
Double check all connections to insure that they are tight and all screws
and bolts are securely tightened. Reconnect the battery. Using
a bent paper clip, connect the +B and Fp terminals in the 'Diagnosis' box and
turn the ignition key to 'ON' without attempting to start the engine. The fuel
pump will start and the fuel system will pressurize. Use your nose to insure
that the cold start fuel feed plug inserted in the fuel rail is not leaking. If
you smell any gasoline, quickly turn off the ignition and remove the
throttle body to determine the cause of the leak. Do not continue until the leak
is fixed. Turn the ignition key to 'OFF' and pull out the paper clip.
Insert the CD provided with the Nemesis in your laptop's CD drive. At this
time you may want to read the User's Manual provided as a PDF file on the CD (or
download it here) and
familiarize yourself with the basic features and navigation of the Nemesis
laptop software. Then, run the installer (the file named 'Setup.exe')
to install the Nemesis program on your laptop. You can also download the latest
installer here. Connect the serial
cable in the passenger cabin to the laptop computer. Note that it is strongly
recommended that you either use a laptop computer with a built-in serial
connector or that you purchase a PCMCIA serial interface to connect to the
Nemesis. While USB to serial interfaces are more common and less expensive, many
of them either do not work or require that you spend a lot of time playing with
the advanced setup features of the interface to find a combination of settings
that sometimes work. Use these interfaces at your own peril.
VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT use the download button on the laptop software
to send a new set of maps to the Nemesis system until you have successfully
managed to upload the maps that where shipped with the Nemesis unit and have
saved them on your laptop. Most of the cases where the Nemesis system fails to
work as advertised are a result of someone doing a download with an improperly
configured serial interface that is unable to do a successful upload much
less have a chance of doing anything except downloading complete and total junk
to the Nemesis unit that may require you to send back your unit to us to get it
fixed. For those of you familiar with the AEM EMS, their system uses the term
upload to mean download and download to mean upload. Don't get the terms
confused. Upload on the Nemesis software means moving the maps from the Nemesis
up to the laptop (which is the master system and thus the term upload is
appropriately used).
There are several unconnected wires attached to
the plug and play box with spade connectors and blade connector caps to cover
them. Do not remove the blade cap to any of these wires unless you are going to
connect the spade connector to another wire or solenoid as some of these wires
could cause problems if they were to short against each other or against the
chassis. There is a red wire with two sets of spade connectors attached. This
wire is switched power and supplies 12 volts when the ignition key is 'ON.' Do
not use this wire to power any accessory as it is connected to the Nemesis power
supply and is only intended for use in connecting extra relays to the Nemesis
when they are needed to switch larger amounts of current such as to power water
injection pumps or cooling fans. The white wire with a yellow stripe is unswitched power and is used by the optional turbo timer kit.
The solid white wire, if present is used to connect an aftermarket ignition
system.
On older systems, there is a white wire
with a brown and orange stripe which is the PWM13 output of the Nemesis and is set up
as a boost switch. This wire is most often used to switch on a water injection
system when a desired boost level is exceeded. Newer plug and play systems
provide a separate white wire with a brown and green stripe with a pin that can
be used to hook up either an on/off or a PWM flow-control system such as the
Aquamist 2c.
Start the Nemesis software
and turn the ignition key to 'ON.' The check engine light on the dashboard
should light up. If it does not, verify that the Nemesis is getting power by
checking the EFI fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Use the 'Upload' button to load the base program stored in the Nemesis onto the
laptop. Use the 'Maps' button to enter the map adjustment portion of the
program. On the front panel, locate the 'BATT,' 'AIR' and 'COOL' values, which
indicate the battery voltage, intake air temperature and coolant temperature,
respectively. Verify that these values are reasonable. In particular battery
voltage should be near 12 volts for a healthy battery and the air and coolant
temperatures should be close to the ambient temperature (unless the engine is
still warm from having been operated before you began the installation). Go to
the 'Select->Settings' menu item to bring up the settings panel. Click on the
'THROTTLE' button to select the throttle settings panel. Click on the 'calibrate
zero' to set the closed throttle position. Press the gas pedal down all the way
and keep it there. Click on the 'calibrate WOT' button to set the open throttle
position. Close the settings panel by pressing the
'Ok' button. Locate the 'TSP' value on the front panel and verify that it goes
from 0 to 100 as you move the throttle. Use the 'Maps->Save' menu item to save the
base map to a file. When this is done, select 'Maps->Exit' to exit to the entry
screen and press the 'Download' button and save the current settings back into
the Nemesis. In many cases, you will get a message warning you about not having
the proper keys. This is normal, because your unit was shipped with the trigger
parameters set up specifically for the crank and cam sensors on your motor and
without the key that allow you to change these sensor settings (should you ever
wish to move your Nemesis to another type of motor that does not use the same
sensors you will have to contact us regarding a proper harness for the new motor
and to have the triggers properly modified to work with your new application).
When the software indicates that the download finished successfully, turn the ignition key to 'OFF.'
Your Nemesis was shipped to you with a map that is the best for size
injectors and cams that you told us you had when you ordered the unit. If it is not
possible for you to start your tuning process with the original map loaded onto
your Nemesis, be sure to save the original map and then go to the
'Select->Settings' panel and press the 'SETUP' botton to get to the setup
panel. Click the 'Check status' button and write down the 'pass' items. Repeat
the process after you dowload the new map that you want to use onto the Nemesis.
If some of your 'pass' items now 'fail', you will need to contact us and send us
the map you want to use in order to have the proper passwords added to it so
that all of the options you originally had still work.
If you have the wideband feature, follow the directions in the
wideband installation section at this time.
The Nemesis is capable of operating low impedance fuel injectors directly
without a fuel injector resistor pack. When using large injectors, it is
particularly important to actually eliminate the fuel injector resistor pack.
Keep in mind that if you eliminate the fuel injector resistor pack you must
never try to run the car with a stock ECU unless you replace the resistor pack
as doing so will damage the stock ECU and the injectors. You can eliminate the
resistor pack by unplugging the pack which is bolted to the rear firewall from
the engine harness. This pack is the one that has five wires going to it. Using
a pair of diagonal cutters, cut off the plug from the resistor pack leaving
about two inches of wire connected to the connector. Strip off about 1/2" of
insulation off the end of each of the five wires connected to the connector and
twist all five wires together to make good contact. Use a soldering iron and
solder to solder these five wires together. Wrap the exposed solder connection
with electrical tape or heat some shrink warp over it to cover it completely. Plug the connector back into the
engine harness. You have now electrically eliminated the fuel injector resistor
pack.
At this point, you should load the appropriate injector response curve into
your Nemesis map. Turn the ignition to 'OFF' and load the map file that you
saved from the Nemesis using the 'File->Open' menu item. Click the 'Maps' button
and then 'OK' when the Nemesis program tells you that the ECU is not connected.
Go to 'Tools->Load injector response.' If you are running the Nemesis with the
fuel injector pack still in the car using either stock or Supra injectors,
select '8 OHM INJECTOR' and click the 'Load' button. If you are running without
the fuel injector pack, use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance in ohms across
the two terminals of any one of your fuel injectors then select the value from
the panel that most closely matches the resistance you measured and click the
'Load' button. Once you have done so, select 'Maps->Exit' to go back to the
Nemesis program entry screen. Use 'File->Save' to save the maps with the proper
injector response curve. Turn the ignition key to 'ON' to power up the Nemesis
and then click the 'Download to ecu' button and 'Download' to load the new
injector response into the unit. Switch the ignition key to 'OFF' when the
download completes. Note that if you reload the map and go into the load
injector response panel again, that it will always have the 16 ohm option
selected. This is normal regardless of which option you loaded last.
Turn the ignition key to 'ON' and attempt to start the engine. If it
starts and settles into an idle, you have a big smile on your face and you can
go on to the next paragraph. If it starts and stalls, try again a couple of
times. If it idles after one or two tries, you most likely just need to adjust
the cold start parameters a little bit. If it continues to stall, try giving it
a little gas after it starts and see if you can keep it going. If you can, then
most likely your idle map is a little too lean for your engine or your idle
screw needs a little adjustment to give the engine enough air to keep it
running. If it doesn't start or won't keep running even with some gas, you need
to go to the troubleshooting primer.
After you get the engine to start and run, let it warm up and bring it to a
stable idle between 800-1200 RPMs. At this point, verify your ignition timing
before you proceed with tuning the Nemesis. The process of checking the ignition
timing is very similar to what you do to check ignition timing with the stock
ECU except that instead of putting a jumper in the 'Diagnosis' connector, you
need to flip the switch on the left side of the Nemesis upwards to the 'Test'
position to get the base map to select a timing of 10 degrees BTDC. On newer
plug and play boxes, there is no 'Test' label on the switch and if this is the case, then use
a jumper between the 'TE1' and the 'E1' pins in the 'Diagnosis' connector to
check the base timing just as you would in the with the stock ECU in place. With the
engine running and warm, the right side trim plate removed and a timing light
connected, flip the switch to 'Test' or put the jumper in place and verify on the main Nemesis panel that
the 'ADV' value is 10 (hit the 'Mode' button to switch to numeric mode if the
'ADV' box shows a bar instead of a number). If 'ADV' is not 10, then you have
either modified the base map timing maps so that they no longer gives 10 degrees
of timing when you switch to test mode or maybe the engine has not yet reached
an operating temperature between 80-100 degrees Celsius. Whatever the 'ADV'
number is (assuming that it is stable), that is the amount of advance that you
should read when you point the timing light at the crankshaft pulley. If it is
off, loosen the distributor and turn it clockwise to advance and
counterclockwise to retard the timing mark until the reading on the pulley
matches the value in the 'ADV' box. Once you have a match between the timing
light reading and the laptop screen ADV number, lock down the
distributor and move the switch on the plug and play box back to the center
position or pull the jumper out.
If you have the boost controller feature, follow the directions in the
boost control installation section at this time to install the boost controller and program it.
If you have an aftermarket MSD ignition system or purchased the direct fire ignition option, follow the directions in the
ignition installation section at this
time to connect the ignition system.
If you have the launch control cable, follow the directions in the
launch control section at this time to set up
your launch control system.
If you have the turbo timer option, follow the directions in the
turbo timer section at this time to set up
your turbo timer.
At this point, you are ready to tune your car for best drivability and power.
You can learn more this in the Nemesis tuning primer.
When you are finished tuning the car, you should remove the black wire going
to the B10 pin on the small blue connector on the Nemesis. This will prevent the
Nemesis from being programmed on the fly and enable the backup spark map when
the knock detection system parameters instruct the Nemesis to fall back to the
backup spark map. Turn the ignition key to 'OFF.' Carefully unplug the three
connectors from the right side of the Nemesis. On the small blue connector, look
at the back where the wires come out and locate the markings on the corners that
distinguish row A from B and the B1 pin from the B12 pin. The B10 pin is the
third pin from the pin labeled B12 which is a solid black wire. Use a small
flat-baded screwdriver to pull off the plastic retaining clip on that row of
pins. Then, use a
straightened out paper clip or a small jeweler's screwdriver on the large hole
in the front of the connector for B10 to carefully push back the locking tab for
the B10 wire while tugging gently on the black wire to release it. Use a little
bit of electrical tape to prevent this pin from contacting anything.
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